Art and Life

Art and Life

Königsplatz; Lenbachhaus, Munich

View of entrance to modern building with glass fronted ground floor, wooden facade above, LENBACHHAUS in blue letters above entrance, vertical lamps in grass on left of path to door, tree between lamps, Lenbachhaus, Munich

Ah, the artful Oldies slipped another art gallery onto the agenda! This time, Lenbachhaus, which, I have to say, was well worth a visit. I loved the venue itself, where a modern extension is cleverly wrapped around one side of the original Lenbach villa. The main collection features famous names including Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc, many of whom were part of the ‘Blauer Reiter’ group. I came away with the impression of a wonderful use of colour. Sure, what’s not to love about blue and red horses and red, green and yellow cows?

Abstract modern painting of red hors on left, blue on right, stylised houses and trees in background, Lenbachhaus, Munich

The ‘Art and Life, 1918 to 1955’ exhibition featured a wide variety of artists, displayed simply in alphabetical order. The ‘Life’ part referred to the historic context of their work. I was horrified to learn the fate of some of these artists during the Nazi regime. Some were Nazi sympathisers of course, but many others, who, let’s say, did not ‘meet with approval’, were exiled, imprisoned or even murdered in concentration camps. Madness!

This madness was even more in evidence just a short walk away, at the far end of the Königsplatz.

View through trees of large modern white building with long, narrow, vertical windows at offset points on each floor, NS-Documentation Centre, Munich

It was a weird feeling to be standing on the very spot the National Socialist German Workers Party – the Nazi Party to you and me – had its headquarters, the former ‘Brown House’. But perhaps there could be no better location for the Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism than this. And I’m sure it’s no coincidence that the centre – an ultra-modern, white, cube-like structure – couldn’t look more different from the former Nazi HQ.

The Oldies were very quiet as they moved through the centre, as indeed were all the visitors. It’s no wonder. The posters, photographs, videos and documentation were harrowing and downright scary.

Display on black background of old posters with old German lettering, showing man starting to clench fist, man in background falling down, NS- Documentation Centre, Munich

For me, by far the most frightening part of the whole thing was that much of what I saw and read about what happened in Germany back then sounds uncannily like what is happening in so many countries right now. I certainly hope I am wrong!

Seamus the Seagull in foreground, large building with two square towers and Grecian style columns in centre of square with some people walking around, Königsplatz, Munich

I had to shudder when we left the NS-Documentation Centre. Although the buildings around the Königsplatz predate the Nazi regime, the grandiose Grecian style of the square fitted in well with its ideologies. It certainly wasn’t difficult to visualise Nazi parades taking place in these surroundings.

View through Grecian style columns at large building with Grecian style columns across square, circular monument set in ground below, people walking in front of distant building, Königsplatz, Munich

I was puzzled by this large circular memorial in front of the Antikensammlung, the Museum of Antiquities, and tried to work out what was written on it. It turned out that these are titles of just some of the hundreds of books – by both German and international authors – that were put on Nazi ‘black lists’. Lists that were used by the organisers of book burnings that took place on this spot.

Imagine burning books, for goodness sake! At least that couldn’t happen today.

View from ground of flat monument set in ground, damp with rain and scattered with grit - text on monument in German: man and woman walking in background looking at monument, stockinged legs of small girl wearing blue trainers visible in foreground, large municipal building in background, Königsplatz, Munich

Then again, I hear that they are even starting to ban children’s books in some places nowadays…

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