Hitting new heights in Cyprus

Hitting new heights in Cyprus

Driving in the Troodos Mountains

I knew it had to happen. Those Troodos mountains had been beckoning to the Oldies from the moment we arrived on the island. It was only a matter of time before they headed inland. And uphill.

Thankfully, there were spectacular views of the coastline as we climbed the steep and windy roads that threaded their way along and through the dramatic mountainous landscape. I knew we were in for a slow ride after His Lordship stopped off at about the eighth viewing point in the same number of miles. Not that I objected, mind you.

Man in t-shirt and shorts holding Seamus the Seagull standing on side of road in front of telegraph pole beside blue sign with writing in yellow in Greek, writing in white below "Built-Up Area", hills in background, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

I had to laugh at the signage en-route. This so-called ‘Built-Up Area’ turned out to be a scattering of houses, tightly tucked into the hillside.

Things can get pretty tight in those ‘built up areas’ too. Her Ladyship had a canary every time His Lordship decided to drive through a mountain village. Even I got a little worried when I noticed that the locals sometimes drove golf carts rather than cars through the extremely narrow village streets. In our tiny rental car, it was a case of fold back your wing mirrors and hold your breath!

Close up of ruin of building with plaster falling off wall, small wooden hatch and wooden door faded and warped, sign on door in Greek and English "CAUTION CRUMBLING BUILDING"

Like the Oldies, the villages were partly quite crumbly too…

The Dynamic Duo struck out for Cyprus’s highest mountain, Mount Olympus, an impressive peak at 1950 m. Now, before you start gasping in admiration of the Oldies, there are perfectly paved roads leading all the way to the top. I was glad, however, they had exerted themselves even this much, as the nearby ski slopes were well worth the trip.

Woman walking uphill, trees on left, ski-lift support on right, mountains in background, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

His Lordship was inclined to scoff at the rather dated drag lifts, but her Ladyship was quick to remind him that they beat the socks off the ski lift we’d seen in Albania.

Seamus the Seagull on ground, green wooden hut in background with red sign in front, text reads: "SKI LESSONS, Beginners, Intermediate, Advanced", Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

For once, I wasn’t intimidated by the length or steepness of the ski slopes. Perhaps I should sign up for lessons here and resume my skiing career. Or perhaps not.

Small, old ski slope preparation machine on left beside tree next to blue and white ice-cream van, fence and forest in background, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

Only in Cyprus! Where else would you see a slope grooming machine alongside an ice-cream van?

Four people walking along arched balcony with grid fence along walkway, door in wall in background, walls decorated in gold and colourful painting, Kykkos Monastery, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

Apart from several ski slopes, the signage indicated that the mountains were full of monasteries. The Oldies decided to investigate further and ended up visiting Kykkos Monastery. Although its roots go back to the 11th century, much of the complex today is modern. I was amazed at how ornate it is. All that gold leaf was quite dazzling. And I’m still trying to figure out what the ‘religious consumables’ on sale in the monastery shop could be…

Large, ornate rectangular sign on gold pedestal with gold writing on red background, text illegible, Kykkos Monastery, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

I had a feeling that the Oldies weren’t done with the Troodos Mountains yet, and sure enough, they headed for hills again a few days later. This time they went in search of some of the UNESCO World Heritage painted churches.

View of small stone building from gable end with roof on right side reaching almost to the ground, trees and other stone buildings nearby, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

The Dynamic Duo eventually managed to locate the Church of Archangel Michael, which to be fair, is well hidden away in a small village and, from the outside, looks like a tiny barn. Once your eyes adapt to the darkness inside, a treasure trove of glorious paintings dating from the 15th century is revealed.

detail of religious painting in bright colours with woman with halo lying down, man and child with halos and other men with beards looking at her

I loved the great character in the facial expressions. And some of those hair-dos were phenomenal!

View of old stone building with awning over door, small openings above, long annex in stone and wood to the right, Monastery of St John Lampadistis, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

The Wingless Wonders were on a roll now, pressing on to the Monastery of St. John Lampadistis. We were treated to another feast of stunning paintings, though I’m not sure if Her Ladyship has yet recovered from the incredibly scary drive there.

Even more incredibly, Herself agreed to visiting yet another of the UNESCO World Heritage Byzanthian churches, this time, the Church of Panagia, above the village of Moutoullas. She appeared quite relieved that the access to this one didn’t involve dicing with death. Well, not as much as the drive to the last one anyway. 

Once again, the church was tiny and dark, and its 13th century ‘Crusader’ style of paintings absolutely beautiful. This stunning carved door is apparently the original. Imagine a carved wooden object lasting over 700 years!

View of interior of ancient building with partly restored frescos, ornate carved wooden door open against wall, passageway visible beyond, Church of Panagia, Troodos Mountains, Cyprus

There’s hope for me yet.

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