A breath of fresh air

A breath of fresh air

Hidden Treasures of the Kamp Valley

I must admit I hadn’t any great expectations when the Oldies said they were planning to explore the Kamptal/Kamp Valley. After having spent so much time on the mighty Danube, the Kamp seemed a mere trickle in comparison. But what a magical river valley it is. There you go. Size really isn’t everything!

For the Oldies, a visit to Langenlois in the wine growing region of the Kamp Valley was a must, of course. The town itself is as I’d come to expect of the area, with its fair share of ancient churches and public buildings, quaint shops and taverns. But I was caught by surprise by the Loisium, a stunning ultra-modern complex consisting of a hotel and visitors centre, slap bang in the middle of the vineyards.

Large, modern grey square building with irregular openings in facade, field of vines in foreground, blue sky with white clouds above, Loisium, Kamp Valley, Austria

Not surprisingly, the Oldies immediately elected to go to the ‘World of Wine’ experience. Already outside in the grounds of the Loisium, there were all kinds of information boards about grape varieties and wine making which was all a bit bewildering for me. I was happy just to perch among those lovely cool vines.

Seamus the Seagull standing on inside bottom of wooden frame around vine in middle of vineyard, black label fixed on lower part of frame reading CHARDONNAY, Langenlois, Kamp Valley, Austria

Don’t I look a picture?

As we descended into the visitors centre, I noticed that one enormous stainless steel tank had a capacity of 345,000 litres. Now that would even keep the Oldies going for a while! Deeper and deeper we went, until we finally reached the 900 year old cellars. I was glad to hear that the local loess soil is not only excellent for growing vines, but is also extremely stable. Still and all, it was a bit unnerving and creepy down there for my liking. Not quite my idea of a barrel of laughs!

Long row of large wooden barrels inside cellar, the nearest one with lettering and the date 1958, row of lights in ceiling above, Loisium, Kamp Valley, Austria

Hmmm, I noticed that a lot of the wines down there were quite old. I hope they make some fresh stuff too!

Wine cellar full of bottles of wine with labels showing 1967, 1974, 57 and others, board at back of cellar reading 'Ohne Wein und ohne Weiber, hat de Teufel unsere Leiber' (Goethe)', Loisium, Langenlois, Kamp Valley, Austria

I was happy to reach ground level again at the end of the tour. Overall though, I have to say that the World of Wine is a well-balanced experience, between its lively modern light show, its earthy cellars, the mature flavour of the past in the museum section, all culminating in a long finish, with the slow browsing of the elegant, well-stocked wine store.

Gosh, I’d better watch it. I think some of that wine-tasting lingo has rubbed off on me. And I didn’t even touch a drop, I promise!

close up of wildflowers including poppies and daisies in a field, Kamp Valley, Austria

Over the next few days, the Dynamic Duo explored the Kamp Valley further, beyond the wine-growing area, and even went on a couple of short hikes. I was certainly happy to tag along and enjoy the wonderful unspoilt nature and gorgeous views. I was particularly enthralled by the abundance of wild flowers. What a great place to be if you’re a bee… or any other type of insect, for that matter!

Large baroque style church with tall square tower, other buildings attached on either side, Altenburg Abbey, Kamp Valley, Austria

There are so many abbeys in this part of the world, you’re practically tripping over them. So I wasn’t surprised to come across one in the Kamp Valley. Stift Altenburg is quite an eyeful. Beautiful! I was intrigued in particular by its medieval monastery below the main monastery, reminiscent of the church below the church in Straden. But once again, it was as much its lovely, tranquil setting as the abbey itself that left the strongest impression on me. Those monks certainly had a knack of picking all the best locations!

River with weir in foreground, parkland behind and church and other buildings on hill in background, blue sky with white clouds above, Gars am Kamp, Kamp Valley, Austria

Another stunning spot in this beautiful valley, Gars am Kamp, was a breath of fresh air. Literally. It’s a Luftkurort, a climatic health spa. His Lordship explained that to reap the benefits, you simply need to go for gentle strolls and breathe in the air. Gentle strolling and breathing – perfect for Oldies. Even they can manage that. Just about.

In fact, the Wingless Wonders surprised me by not only strolling around the town, but marching up the hill – slowly – to visit the castle ruins. I thought it was great that the ruin is still put to good use these days – as an open-air opera and theatre venue.

Man in dark shirt and dark shorts striking a pose in middle of wooden stage with ruin of large building in background, Gars am Kamp ruins, Kamp Valley, Austria

His Lordship certainly made a show of himself on the stage. Thank goodness Herself and myself were the only audience!

smiling, balding, bearded man sitting at table in restaurant with cake with fork stuck in it on plate in front of him and cup of coffee, Seamus the Seagull standing in table beside cake, Kamp Valley, Austria

Fresh air certainly stimulates the appetite, and His Lordship and I had no problem in demolishing a poppy seed cake in the gorgeous Art Nouveau ‘Café Ehrenberger’.

Yes, that climatic health spa certainly works. I can attest to that. After our visit to Gars am Kamp, the Dynamic Duo slept around the clock. Unfortunately it didn’t work for me. I was awake all night – thanks to their snoring.

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