Straden and Gleichenberg Volcano Walk

‘Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside!

Oh, I do like to be beside the sea!’

That’s my favourite song, but I never thought I’d be singing it on the top of an extinct volcano in south-eastern Austria. Believe it or not though, we really were at the seaside. Or at least, where the Styrian seaside used to be.

We were back in Vulkanland, Volcano Country, this time in the village of Straden. At an altitude of about 300m, it was hard to take in that we were standing on what was once a sub-tropical sea, full of sharks and whales and other such exotic marine critters. It was also hard to believe that the Straden volcano, at about 2 million years old, is just a baby. At least compared to its older neighbours such as Gleichenberg, a much more mature 17-million-year-old.

Straden village itself is a pretty, medieval gem. It has apparently long been a place of pilgrimage and is famous for its four churches. For the life of me, however, I could only spot three church spires. I was beginning to think that my beady little eyes had finally let me down when I discovered that one of the churches is underneath another, what is known as a cellar church. In medieval times, it was supposedly a great place to hide out from would-be attackers. No wonder this parish has been around for over 800 years!

I was impressed with this medieval timepiece, dated 1521. Imagine, solar powered – back then!

That clock was working well thanks to the sunshine, but I think the heat sapped the Oldies. They weren’t particularly energetic, but they somehow managed to get themselves up the next hump to the Saziani viewing platform amongst the vineyards. And, wow, am I glad they did. What wonderful views, and all the way into Slovenia.

The Dynamic Duo must have been feeling more dynamic a few days later. They finally made it to Bad Gleichenberg, ready to tackle the Kogelrundweg, the route around the Gleichenberg volcano. It promised to be a shorter walk than our unscheduled Kaskögerlweg hike, only about two and a half hours. Her Ladyship wasn’t taking any chances this time, though. She brought along an enormous rucksack stuffed with enough sandwiches to feed an army. That certainly got my seal of approval!

The highest point of the Gleichenberg volcano is just under 600m above sea level which, by Austrian standards, is a mere bump on the landscape. But that’s only the tip of the iceberg… so to speak. What we see today is just the peak of what would have been the mightiest volcano in the range. Originally, it was a massive island rising out of the sea – as long as there still was a sea. As the waters sank lower, the layers of lava built up, leaving only the very top of the volcano above ground. It may seem underwhelming now, but as it stands alone in a gently undulating plain, it reminds me a little of the Great Sugarloaf Mountain in County Wicklow. It packs a big punch for its height.

The hiking route included a forestry educational path, partly put together by local school children. I particularly liked this tree root ‘staircase’. There were all kinds of information boards along the way, and even several exercise stations. Thanks to these, the Oldies used up a few extra calories. By speeding up and rushing past them.

One of the highlights – and highpoints – of the walk was the viewing tower which was next to the quarry. Up to the beginning of the 20^th century, huge lava stones were hacked out by hand here for building materials and millstones. His Lordship pointed out a deep ravine through the woods where the blocks of stone would have been transported down the mountain by ox or horse drawn carts. Heavy work indeed!

The blacksmith’s hut, the Enzianhütte, where the mining tools were made and sharpened, still stands and has been nicely renovated. Nowadays, it makes a pleasant picnic spot with even a few millstones set up as tables. I definitely wouldn’t have liked to have this millstone around my neck!

I was glad to see that the Oldies found enough energy to take the detour off the circular route to head for the summit. The last stretch was also reminiscent of the Sugarloaf in Ireland. The path was steep and covered in loose rocks, although this time it was lava stone, not granite. His Lordship nearly went for a flyer and Her Ladyship got decidedly hot under the collar en-route.

Heroic to the core, however, the pair made it to the summit unscathed. Mind you, Her Ladyship started grumbling on the way back to base. It was too hot, she was too tired… the usual.

That one would feel right at home in a place I’d spotted from the viewing tower earlier: Jammerberg, Whining Mountain.