Coping on the Slovenian Coast
Cycling from Koper to Izola
It’s not so easy to find a campsite on the Slovenian coast. You only need a bird’s eye view of it to see why. Little Slovenia only has a little bit of coast. A mere 46km, including all the bendy bits and not even all of that is accessible.
I’ll spare you the gory details of the Oldies’ efforts in manoeuvering along this roller coaster of a coastline in search of a campsite. Happily, they finally settled on one in Ankaran, directly on the sea and just a few kilometres outside Koper. I can certainly cope with that! Koper was one of the first places we visited since we started out on our travels over four years ago. We had come full circle!
Walking and cycling were the order of the day. Even Herself couldn’t complain. Well, of course she did, but not as much as usual, thank goodness.
Naturally enough, the Oldies’ first outing was to Koper itself. I was delighted to see the port again and was amazed to see the great improvements that had been made to the area along the seafront since our last visit. The Wingless Wonders were impressed with the numerous cycling paths through town. So was I. Between all those huge trucks driving in and out of the port and Her Ladyship’s wobbly cycling skills, I was happy that she kept herself – and Yours Truly – safely off the road!
Important matters had to be attended to before we got down to further exploring. Where were we going to eat? I was excited to see and smell all those fish restaurants along the seafront. Mmmm, I thought, fish and chips with a sea view! What more could a gull ask for?
Unfortunately, Her Ladyship spotted a Bosnian ćevapčići restaurant hidden away in a nondescript courtyard surrounded by nondescript apartment blocks. There was no deterring her. Ever since she tasted real Bosnian ćevapčići served in lepinja in Mostar, she’s been on the search for this delicacy ever since. So, sadly, there was no fish on the menu for me that day. I have to admit, though, that the ćevapčići were top notch and the lepinja, which is like a cross between pita bread and ciabatta, was absolutely delicious. So filling though! The Dynamic Duo were not so dynamic after that meal! They waddled around like a pair of overstuffed ducks for the rest of the afternoon.
I’d been so focused on the port and the seafront that I’d forgotten how beautiful the old – or to be precise – ancient town centre was, so I didn’t mind pottering around with them there for the rest of the afternoon while they digested their Bosnian brunch.
Her Ladyship was not going to be let off lightly, however. On our next outing to Koper, Himself was determined to cycle on to Izola. I immediately noticed that something was very different since the last time the Oldies walked out this way back in 2016, but I just couldn’t put my wingtip on it. Then I figured it out. Thanks to a new tunnel between Koper and Izola, it has been possible to close the coast road to traffic. It is now for the exclusive use of pedestrians and cyclists – and seagulls of course. Wonderful.
I really liked Izola. The old town centre is partly beautifully restored, partly shabby, and overall quaint and interesting. Parking in the old town centre is hilarious at times. You have to say that this ancient arcade between the houses makes a great carport, though how the driver got the car in there in the first place is a mystery to me! With these narrow streets, it’s no wonder that scooters are such a popular mode of transport. And there are plenty of opportunities for… let’s call it “creative parking” … for two-wheelers too!
The promenade in Izola is lovely and the fish restaurants along it even lovelier. His Lordship’s prawn risotto had me drooling, I can tell you. Sadly, after overdoing it on the main courses, neither of the Oldies had room for a slice of Izolanka cake. As you might have guessed, this is Izola’s answer to Bled’s Kremšnita, just with a lot more to it: sponge, vanilla cream, chocolate, nuts and orange, “intertwined like the wind, the sun and the sea, luring us into tasting it.” Now, if that doesn’t sound like a must try, I don’t know what does. Mmmmm!
There was nothing for it but to return to Izola another day. How Himself managed to lure Her Ladyship into joining him on a 30km round trip just so he could have a slice of cake is beyond me! But join him she did, and from the few morsels of Izolanka that I managed to filch, I have to say that it was definitely worth Her Ladyship’s effort in cycling me there. I’m not sure she’d agree with me though. She looked far from pleased as she huffed and puffed against the wind all the way back to Ankaran.
I don’t know what she was complaining about. I thought it was a piece of cake!
