Looking back at Lisbon
Ferry to Almada, Cristo Rei Statue, Lisbon
When I heard that we were going back to Lisbon, I started preparing myself for all the old familiar haunts, the familiar beaches, the familiar views. The first thing we did, however, was take in a completely unfamiliar view of the city…
Her Ladyship, a.k.a. the Heroine of the High Seas , had long been resisting a trip out to the Setubal Peninsula by boat. We had, of course, been there before by car but His Lordship was intrigued by the southern shores of the Tagus. Incredibly, his powers of persuasion proved powerful enough to convince Herself to join him on the ferry from Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas. More power to him!
Of course, we should have known we’d pay the price. She was already complaining about the ‘high waves’ from the moment she’d taken her seat on the deck. ‘Em, we’re actually still docked, love’, His Lordship gently explained. ‘I don’t care. There’s definite movement all the same. Where are the sick bags?’ The embarrassment of it! I’d have hung my head in shame if I hadn’t been so enraptured by the wonderful views across the river.
Herself grudgingly admitted that the crossing ‘wasn’t too bad’, mainly because it was over so quickly. After a mere 15 minutes, we were already docking on the other side. Gripping Her Ladyship firmly by the arm, His Lordship led her onto solid ground. Or not so solid, actually. The riverside promenade has seen better days. You’d want to watch your step around here or you could easily go for an unscheduled swim!
Anyway, there we had it. A new view of Lisbon. I’ve always loved this city, but from the south side of the Tagus, I had never seen it looking so good. From the Vasco da Gama Bridge to the 25th April Bridge, from Belem to Cascais and beyond, it’s almost too much to take in at once. What a panorama!
Yes, the promenade is rather the worse for wear. The old warehouses and umpteen unidentifiable buildings along the riverside are completely derelict. There are a couple of funky looking restaurants in among the ruins though, and we overheard talk of a planned revitalisation of the area. This may well be a spot to keep an eye on in the future.
From the promenade we all had cricks in our necks from looking up at the famous Cristo Rei statue standing high above us. No prizes for guessing that this statue was inspired by the Cristo Redentor monument in Rio de Janeiro. The Oldies jumped at the chance to take the (free) panoramic Boca do Vento elevator from the Jardim do Rio (River Garden) up to the old centre of Almada. From there it was a still bit of a walk to get to the statue itself, but for once nobody was complaining. The Oldies just couldn’t wait to visit this iconic monument and I couldn‘t wait to see the views from the top!
I knew that the Cristo Rei was big, it was only when we were standing at the foot of the pedestal that I was able to take in the sheer scale of it. The pedestal alone is 82m and the statue itself a further 28m high. Positioned at the highest point in Almada, at an altitude of 133m, this is a truly outstanding monument! Needless to say, the views from the top are simply marvellous. Now you know where to go if you want to really see Lisbon!
Later, after retracing their steps the Oldies decided to have quick gander around town, or should I say city. Almada is a lot bigger than it looks at first glance, with a population of about 175,000. There was a great the buzz around the riverside and pedestrianised areas and it had a very authentic feel to it. This is no tourist destination, the majority of the people bustling to and from the ferry, bus and trams stations, or sitting in the numerous cafes, bars and restaurants were locals. Here too, there are plans underway to revitalise this ‘Water City’, making it a ‘city within the city’. I can see it turning into an up and coming area, alright. The location alone is second to none!
There are plenty of reminders of the old ship-building industry here. This submarine in the dry dock gave me the willies though. I’d hate to be locked up inside that giant cigar case! The Dom Fernando Il e Glória, the last wooden frigate in the Portuguese Navy, launched back in 1843, was more my style. I could well imagine hanging out with a flock of fellow gulls around the masts of this majestic vessel.
Uh oh! Here we go again. Time to undertake our death-defying journey back across the Tagus. Her Ladyship, clinging onto Himself for dear life, insists that we take a seat next to the armário colete salva-vidas. I’m impressed that she figured out that was the life-jacket cupboard. She can’t read a Portuguese menu to save her life, but when it comes to things that will, well, save her life, her comprehension of the language suddenly improves no end.
This time round, our ferry has no deck so we are sitting inside, our eye level practically at water level. This seems to freak Her Ladyship out even more than before. ‘We’re heading straight for that yacht!’ she shrieks. ‘Get the feck out of the way, you stupid yacht!’ ‘Oh my god, what if that cruise ship sets sail now? We’re sunk!’ His Lordship is struggling to keep a straight face, and I’m pretty sure that I heard a few other passengers sniggering behind us. In fact, even I am starting to enjoy myself too…
The Cais do Sodre-Cacilhas ferry trip is great value, by the way. A ticket costs only €1.25. And if you are lucky enough to have Her Ladyship as a fellow passenger, the on-board entertainment is second to none. And free into the bargain.
