Mastering Levoca
Podlesok and Levoca, Slovakia
We are moving westwards, our next stop being in Podlesok in the High Tatra region. This campsite has got to have one of the best views ever! I feel like I should rechristen the High Tatras the ‘High Hatras’. They wear a hat of clouds each morning, but when they finally peek (or should that be peak?) out from under their wispy headgear, they display their full magnificence to the world.
The campsite is located in the Slovak Paradise National Park and is right beside the starting points for many of the famous gorge walks. A hiker’s paradise indeed. Every morning, we watch our fellow campers tying up their bootlaces, packing up their rucksacks and marching off purposefully through the forest. And what do the Oldies do? Hop in the car and go sightseeing.
I have to admit that their first port of call, Levoca, is well worth a visit. The old town centre is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I can’t believe how much of the medieval town walls are still intact and how many of the historic buildings have been beautifully restored. Walking through those gates is like stepping back in time. The town square is apparently one of the largest medieval squares in Central Europe. It’s hard to know where to look first. I love the Thurzo House with its sgraffito façade. Not too sure what that means, actually, but sgraffito is a darn sight prettier than graffiti!
The 16th century town hall is really cool with its elegant arcades. In fact, I bet it is nice and cool in there on a hot day. I loved the simplicity of the Protestant church and the Oldies were impressed to see that it has an extensive library of sheet music by local Baroque composers as well as valuable books. Nice idea that, a library in a church. Peace and quiet guaranteed.
The highlight of the town has to be St. James’ Church. I’ve seen dozens upon dozens of churches at this stage, but this one really knocked my socks off. It dates from the 14th century and has no fewer than 10 incredible altars dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. Now, the genius who carved Yours Truly out of wood is an absolute master, but here’s another one: Master Paul. He was the artist behind the astonishing altarpiece which, at 18.6m, is the highest of its kind in the world. Carved out of lime wood without the use of metal nails, the quality of the carving in this Gothic masterpiece is simply exquisite. Hats off to the Master. Photography is not allowed, by the way, so you’ll just have to go and see it for yourselves. I can’t imagine that photos could do it justice anyway. It has to be seen to be believed.
This is gas. It’s called a cage of shame. Not a bad idea, actually. In medieval times, people were publicly humiliated by being locked inside for minor offences, such as being drunk in public, staying out late at night or even gossiping. Gosh, the Oldies had better watch o…ooow!
Look where they just stuck me! The cheek of them! Fat chance of me ever being able to stay out at night, and as for gossiping… I never gossip about anyone. Oh. Well, not much anyway…
When I was finally released from that ridiculous cage (what medieval moron came up with that idea?), we took to the hill above Levoca to visit the Basilica of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary. A bit of a mouthful, that, but well worth a visit for the views alone. The story behind it is fascinating. During the Tartar invasion in the 13th century, the inhabitants of Levoca escaped certain death by hiding on this hill. As a gesture of thanks, they built a chapel here, and it has been a place of pilgrimage ever since, with thousands climbing the steep hill at the beginning of July every year. The Oldies drove up, in case you were wondering. (Oh. I’d better watch it. I heard them whispering something about that cage again).
Talking about gratitude, we noticed a young couple at the campsite today going from pitch to pitch, obviously asking for help with something, but equally obviously not having any luck. They arrived at our caravan, and, producing a camera battery, asked if by any chance the Oldies had a charger. It just so happened that Herself had the exact make and model they needed, so she plugged it in for them and arranged a spot where the couple could pick up the battery later. On our return, we found a bag containing some pastries and a lovely note of thanks wishing the Oldies good luck, with a pressed four-leaf clover enclosed. How sweet! Who says that young people these days are ungrateful!
